On the "Flavors Unknown" podcast, we recently had the opportunity to talk to several rising stars at StarChefs NYC, including:
- Luis Herrera, Executive Chef and Partner at Ensenada
- Neel Kajale, Chef de Cuisine at Dhamaka, part of Unapologetic Foods
- Zhan Chen: Executive Chef at Potluck Club and Phoenix Palace
- Richie Millwater: Bar Manager at Clemente Bar
These guests spoke with us about their culinary experience and philosophy, as well as the shifting state of the food and beverage industry.
Recent Changes in the NYC Dining and Cocktail Scene
We started by asking each guest about the industry changes they’ve seen in the past three to five years. Luis mentioned that he had been in New York City for the past 30 years but had recently opened his first restaurant in another state. He noted that the pandemic had a massive impact on the industry, closing restaurants and driving workers away.
Restaurants have been slow to recover. Even after opening, many have had to cut their capacity and offer higher pay to attract employees. However, Luis feels like we’re past the worst of it now.
The Rise of Ethnic Influence
After attending StarChefs events, we’ve noticed a trend toward more ethnic influences and less fine dining. We asked if our guests have seen that reflected in their day-to-day experiences.
Luis noted that he’s seen people looking for more approachable food in his restaurants: “I realized people wanted quesadillas. People didn't want a lobster taco.”
Neel has also noticed that — while fine dining is still cool and always will be — people are just happy to go to a restaurant that “does banging food.” The flavors are explosive, and they don’t have to be in an uptight, self-conscious environment.
Neel also spoke about how people are looking for authentic experiences. He’s not altering the spice profile of his Indian food to appeal to a broader clientele: “The reason why our restaurant group is called Unapologetic Foods is because we want to do Indian food the way it's supposed to be done. For a long while in this country, Indian food was butchered, and it wasn't done correctly. There was too much cream and sugar being added, and we weren't giving the people a right portrayal of our cuisine.”
Zhan mentioned that when Potluck Club opened about three years ago, there were no restaurants doing Cantonese food other than Bonnie’s with Chef Calvin.
Zhan has noticed a rise in hyper-regionalized cuisine in the past few years and feels an obligation to tell the story of his culture through his restaurant: "There are regions, and it's up to us to tell everybody through our food what the differences are. At Potluck, we have things like jellyfish on the menu. People are like, ‘I didn't even know we could eat jellyfish. I thought it was just things that stung you on the beach or something.'"
Related: StarChefs Charleston 2024 Panel Discussion
The Importance of Authenticity and Inspiration
When asked how they balance authenticity with making sure they’re making their guests happy, Richie noted that there’s no conflict. Today’s guests want authenticity and a great story.
“There’s a story where Chef Francesco Clemente was a famous artist who used to paint with Andy Warhol and Basquiat back in the day,” he said. Clemente Bar's drinks reflect stories like that and the art around 11 Madison Park.
When asked about how they approach new dishes, Neel said he wants to elicit a memory. He said the best compliment he receives is when someone says, "This tastes exactly like how my grandmom would make it."
Zhan feels that diners want to be challenged: “They want to try the things that they haven't experienced before. Going to these restaurants is a way of traveling without even having to leave New York City because New York is so diverse.”
Luis approaches it from a different perspective. He noted that creativity has its roots in limitations. With no gas and a very small kitchen, Luis has to focus on what he has to work with. He cited his limitations as the reason 80% of his menu started off raw.
Richie finds inspiration everywhere. He thinks in culinary terms when dreaming up new cocktails. After being impressed with a smoked cantaloupe and chamomile dish on a trip, he returned home and changed up the ingredients a bit: “Instead of cantaloupe, I did carrot. Instead of chamomile, I did osmanthus. The smoke came from peated scotch.”
Zhan is frequently inspired by simple trips to the Cantonese grocery store. He likes to let his mind wander as he peruses the aisles: “I think the best source of inspiration is when you're most not expecting it. Once your mind has time to relax, that's when it comes to you.”
Balancing Passion With the Grind
All of our guests are passionate about their jobs.
Kevin, one of our audience members, asked them how they bring the passion back in when the grind starts taking over. Zhan answered that the grind never stops. Luis agreed, stating that they all knew what they were getting into when they started out, and that it never gets easier. After 13 years in the industry, he just accepts that it’s the nature of the job.
Richie and Luis both stated that they consider their restaurants to be their homes, and they’re OK with that.
It's hard to sustain a healthy relationship in this industry. A lot of chefs end up leaving the grind and pursuing private events, which enables more of a work-life balance.
Richie looks for inspiration when he’s feeling overwhelmed, and he finds it in the hospitality he extends to his clients: “I know I have to be my best every day because most people come there only one time in their lives — or one time maybe that year if they have a lot of money. There are no bad days, and I think we all embody that there are no bad days for our guests.”
Unexpected Successes
Another audience member, Ian, asked our guests if they've ever had any unexpected successes on their menus.
Luis drew laughs when he recounted his one hated success: “We blew up because I have a pineapple butter on the menu that I use for my al pastor dish, and really, that's the only recipe that is not mine.”
Neel shared that his beef pepper fry was an unexpected hit, given that they don’t cook beef in India. In India, they worship cows, and it’s illegal to cook beef in most areas. Despite people telling him not to put the beef pepper fry on the menu, it’s been a huge hit.
Richie said that creamy cocktails are a recent trend — in particular, the Ramos Gin Fizz, an old-fashioned cocktail with lemon-lime, sugar, egg white, and cream. Because they’re plant-based, he used a lentil-based cream and aquafaba instead of egg whites.
One Last Question
Our parting question for the StarChefs NYC panel was what their favorite late-night spot is after work. Zhan said he goes straight home. Richie agreed, although he sometimes goes to his mom’s house for a fried chicken sandwich. For Luis, Kellogg’s Diner is an after-hours go-to.
We really enjoyed this StarChefs discussion and hope you do, too.
For more insights about NYC's 2025 food scene and food innovations, contact the Symrise team.
