In the very beginning, Ssam Bar sold three kinds of Korean burritos. Dana Bowen, writing for The Times's cheap-eats column, called them "enjoyable enough," then spent the rest of her space on the after-hours experiments that Mr. Chang and three other cooks were serving late at night, like a whole roasted pork butt, to be pulled apart with tongs that quickly become as joyously greasy as everything and everybody else at the table.

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