"I'VE BEEN THINKING of writing a book on how to deal with a bad year," says René Redzepi, calibrating the espresso machine in his sun-filled home kitchen in Copenhagen. It's a late-summer morning, and the 36-year-old chef, wearing spandex tights and a T-shirt, has just returned from his near-daily outdoor fitness regimen of running, crunches and burpees.

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