Growing up in Bombay, my absolute favorite go-out-to-eat cuisine was Indian-Chinese-dishes with oddball names like vegetable Manchurian, Hakka noodles, chilli paneer, and American chop suey were hot, spicy, greasy, and tangy, with an indescribable X factor, that made them so supremely satisfying. When I was getting ready to move to the U.S. twenty years ago, I was certain I'd get my weekly fix, knowing how large the Chinese population was.

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