How the city went from offering a small handful of mass-produced labels to the approximately 800 types that are now available is a story unto itself. Whether you find it amid the rustic glow of a sake bar Shigure in TriBeCa, in the red velvet embrace of the Meatpacking District's Cherry or behind the convivial 12-seat bar at Sushi Tsushima in Midtown East, jizake, small-batch artisanal sake, is suddenly everywhere.

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