Take a walk down the chilled beverage case at a convenience store and you pick up on one unignorable rule: You can sell whatever you want as long as it's sweet. Iced tea. Back home, that embarrassment of riches gets whittled down to just one Asian brand that's seen commercial American success: the Japanese Ito En, which sells tea under their own label and through the Western-facing brand Teas' Tea.

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