Enlarge Credit: Chelsea Pomales Last fall I paid a visit to Wilklow Orchards in upstate New York. Inside, plastic tanks ...

Enlarge Credit: Chelsea Pomales Last fall I paid a visit to Wilklow Orchards in upstate New York. Inside, plastic tanks held the autumn's first harvest in potent liquid form-fizzy, fermenting hard cider. It was bone-dry with gripping tannins, nothing like the candy-sweet ciders I'd tried over the years.

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