FOOD CAN BE a portal that offers a unique entree to a culture. But not everyone is up for stepping through it. At least ...

FOOD CAN BE a portal that offers a unique entree to a culture. But not everyone is up for stepping through it. At least not always. Hoi An, a colorful, low-rise Unesco World Heritage site on the central coast of Vietnam, isn't really a check-the-sites-off-a-list sort of place.

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