Flavors Unknown host Emmanuel Laroche and his guests, whether mixologists, pastry chefs, or chefs, infuse each StarChefs panel discussion with the best city flavors. StarChefs Charleston 2024 was no different. The five rising stars showed that in Charleston, creativity with food is as important as premium ingredients and a menu that makes people revisit.
In Emmanuel’s latest episode of the Flavors Unknown podcast, he sat down with Chef-owner Shuai Wang of King BBQ and Jackrabbit Filly, Chef-owner Shaun Brian Sells of CudaCo, Pastry Chef Annie Coleman at Flora and Fauna, Chef-partner Alec Gropman of Uptown Hospitality Group and Bodega, and Chef-manager Nathan Hedland of Da Toscana Porchetta Shop.
Charleston’s Food Scene — Past, Present, and Future
Across Charleston, the Lowcountry focuses on local ingredients and preserving local food heritage. While the food scene is growing more diverse, its strong Gullah Geechee influence means chefs face many challenges in being creative and finding new ways of using traditional foods.
The StarChefs panelists acknowledged the challenges but also saw inspiration in how dynamic Charleston was becoming. With such a strong community influence, it was clear that support might indeed move mountains.
Bringing in Diverse Flavors
Chef Shuai spoke about his Asian background and how he didn’t see much Chinese-style cuisine when he moved to Charleston. His first venture, Short Grain, was a food truck devoted to Chinese and Japanese cuisine. It was a bold move for Charleston — and Chef Shuai — but eventually, his worries turned into determination to introduce new flavors. He said, “Food is seen as a common denominator for everybody. It brings everyone together. If you don't teach then how are people going to learn anything new?”
It’s something Chef Alec experienced as well. Childhood bacon, cheese, and egg sandwiches served on a Kaiser roll mixed with food memories in New York bodegas, cemented his love of comfort food. His Southern customers were hesitant, but Chef Alec said, “You stick to your guns, and you make the tough decision to do what you feel is right for your brand and your product, and people respond.” Now, they can’t get enough. Of course, common Lowcountry favorites like sausage gravy have found their way in, but so have unique flavors like peanut butter and jelly pancakes.
Chef Nathan's connection to local farmers and the community is one of the most rewarding parts of his job. His early career years left him feeling incomplete; so, he left for a cross-country tour. It didn’t take long to see the magic of global cuisine, and he eventually found his new home in Charleston. Chef Nathan combines the best of one place with the best of another, from chanterelle mushrooms to orange blossom honey and locally sourced pork.
Regional favorites go far, Chef Annie acknowledged. She said, “I've always enjoyed this French influence that has happened in the Lowcountry. I carried that through to my schooling and wanted to bring those flavors back and open up something that was more traditional, but still using local ingredients.”
Seeking Inspiration and Innovation
Soon, conversations shifted to how the chefs get their ideas and where they turn for inspiration.
Chef Shuai commented on the large cuisine divide between regions, even when it's the same type of food. His prime example? Broccoli. This vegetable wasn’t present in the Chinese food he enjoyed growing up, but Chef Shuai sees it as an adventure. He said, “To be able to cook Chinese food with whatever ingredients, or if we can't get what other farmers are using, it's fun because it forces you to be creative. It challenges you, like, ‘Oh, I’ve never used this ingredient before in this type of dish; so, how can I incorporate that?’"
Interestingly, the South Carolina GrowFood list is a top source of inspiration for Chef Annie. This list helps connect farmers and restaurants. So, chefs and bakers get what they need and farmers can reach new markets. She said, “If we need inspiration, and we can’t find it anywhere else, we're pulling up that list because that's what we're cooking with.”
The conversation expanded into different flavor notes with seasonality. In addition to seasonal produce, the chefs ping-ponged their favorite flavors, like toasted char, citrusy zest, and warm spice. Other go-to foods and desserts had to hit the right textures, inspire enough innovation, or lean into cozy comfort.
Related: StarChefs Boston 2024 Panel Discussion
Traveling Around Charleston
As a popular destination with tourists, Charleston sees its share of food-curious travelers. When asked what they hoped tourists would try, the chefs could all agree: they wanted people to expand their palates.
Chef Nathan started things off. He said, “They're looking for shrimp and grits; they're looking for fried chicken, cornbread, collard greens, mac and cheese, but there's so much more.” He added that while tourists should absolutely try those classic foods, “...other great restaurants are still using local ingredients and [adding] sometimes heavy Southern influences to our menus. We're still representing the South, but just in a very different way.”
To get that traditional Lowcountry experience, Chef Annie said tourists should sample the soul food and Gullah Geechee food. Chef Shaun chimed in saying, “You’ve got to go to an oyster roast. The local clusters. I think part of the beauty of being in a coastal community is that you can get involved in your food before you eat it. Go to the tea plantation; go make it an experience and not just a quick stop.”
Expansion to the Freezer Aisle
When the conversation turned to frozen food, the chefs had differing opinions. To Chef Shaun, it was easy to see his products there. “It inspires me without having blinders on to see more frozen fish. Then in terms of salmon, especially the higher fatty salmon, you really get a beautiful frozen product.”
Chef Shuai was less optimistic, saying, “They always say, ‘Oh, it tastes just exactly like fresh,’ but it never does, right? It's hard to put so much passion into our food, in the ingredients that we use. All of it's fresh. Then thinking about taking that dish or that ingredient and doing it frozen, it's hard to do.” But he did acknowledge the beauty of dumplings and how they’re easy to freeze to retain their fresh taste.
Charleston’s Love for Merch and Promotion
In such a creative city, it’s no surprise that restaurants and bars — serving everything from innovative cocktails and food to traditional drinks and fare — love to bring out the merch. Chef Shaun explained, “We've had a really good community around us, of people who develop merch and artists. Along with helping marketing-wise, it creates these really unique pieces that add a ton of value.”
Chef Annie summed it up: “It might be people passing through, even if they're only in Charleston for a day. They want to remember it; so, they're going to get a t-shirt from somewhere where they had a great meal.”
Takeaway
Charleston is proud of its Lowcountry culture and cuisine, and it’s something people can see in the foods. At the same time, the city is growing more food-curious, with excitement to try new flavors and bring global influences into the city’s fabric. It’ll be fun to see what the future holds for such a creative, community-driven region.
For more insights about Charleston’s food scene and food innovations, contact the Symrise team.
