You’ve seen them on weekend mornings, the long lines of brunchgoers on sidewalks everywhere — the exhausted parents with small children, bleary-eyed late-nighters ready for a hair of the dog, hollandaise addicts. And while Ignacio Mattos embraces the humble fried egg at Estela more than some of his ...

You’ve seen them on weekend mornings, the long lines of brunchgoers on sidewalks everywhere — the exhausted parents with small children, bleary-eyed late-nighters ready for a hair of the dog, hollandaise addicts. And while Ignacio Mattos embraces the humble fried egg at Estela more than some of his brethren, you’re more likely to find it nuzzling a crisp square of blood sausage than a couple of strips of bacon.

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