For years, soft-serve ice cream has had a stranglehold on San Francisco. It’s fair to say the trend arrived via New York’s Momofuku Noodle Bar, where, in 2007, pastry chef Christina Tosi (now of Milk Bar fame) put soft serve on the menu, gifting restaurants the go-ahead to serve a childlike dessert dispensable with only the pull of a lever. But if you’ve been paying attention, you may have noticed a new dessert coming out of restaurant kitchens — one that is similarly whimsical, nostalgic and, often, smothered in toppings, Read more