Last Thanksgiving, my mother-in-law, who valiantly takes it upon herself to cook every part of the meal, set out her usual spread. There was turkey, souffle-like mashed potatoes, buttery pull-apart rolls, and the best part: multiple pies. But unlike in years past, there was a welcome new addition to the dessert table: a maple pecan ice cream. In the years since she had last hosted, she had gotten into making ice cream. Corn ice cream in the summer, a malted vanilla year round, and for Thanksgiving, the autumnal flavor that fit right in alongside apple, squash, and pecan pies. Its presence made me realize that ice cream should always be a part of the Thanksgiving table. And more than that — it should be chosen with the same consideration given to the rest of the, Read more

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