Like most haughty big-city critics that year, I didn't review Momofuku Noodle Bar when it opened in August 2004. When my...

Like most haughty big-city critics that year, I didn't review Momofuku Noodle Bar when it opened in August 2004. When my colleagues at the Underground Gourmet got around to sampling the ramen and the famous steamed pork buns at the little East Village restaurant, they simply referred to David Chang as "a veteran of Craft."

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